90 1997 Ridge Santa Cruz Mtns Chardonnay 3/25/05 ($25)
Color: Medium golden, looks ready. (3.0) Bouquet: Butterscotch and spicy oak, but in a mature and refined way. Also a thick, honeysuckle fruit with good acidity and a strong mineral component. (3.5) Body: Excellent acidity and minerality with decent fruit, but could have more. Still aging gracefully. (3.0) Flavor: Rich buttered toast with Chablis-like minerality complementing, as well as pine and anise nuances thrown in. (3.0) Finish: Licorice component really comes on here with some bitterness, backed by minerals and fine acidity (a little leesy). Very distinctive, but not overly attractive. (2.5)
Overall: Reminiscent of a Grand Cru Chablis, being very distinctive, yet elegant with a self-defining minerality. It has fine character, but lacks the delicious fruit and balance of the ‘96. It starts closed, but opens as it warms and breaths. (15.0)