93 1997 Ridge Pagani Ranch 6/4/05 ($25)
Color: Deep, dark garnet with no clearing. Very youthful for its age. (4.0) Bouquet: Intense acidity propelling complex spice (bayleaf, thyme, etc.). Also green olive and cedar with a little alcohol showing. (3.0) Body: Concentrated fruit and intense acidity, a bit chalky, but still exciting with plenty of life. (3.0) Flavor: Blackberry, blueberry, black raspberry and boysenberry, being both very tart and sweet at the same time. Classic, delicious Sonoma Valley Zin. Needs an hour or more of air for fruit to be this forward. (3.0) Finish: Parallels flavor and bouquet, but smoother, letting the rich fruit stick out. Long, smooth blueberry is the last thing you taste. (3.5)
Overall: This is finally peaking, although it has a year or two of peakness left in it. More acidity driven than tannin driven, this delicious wine is unique old vines Zin. It could warrant a higher score if a little more time can iron out its flaws. Try again in the next 6-9 months. (16.5)