95+ 2009 Novy Papera Ranch Zinfandel (Russian River Valley) 5/5/17 ($40)
14.5% alc
Color: Deep black cherry garnet. (3.0) Bouquet Loads of red and blue fruit (red and black cherry, raspberry, cranberry and blueberry) with intensity, minerality and elegance. (3.5) Body: Light heavyweight with outstanding fruit and acidity, smooth tannins underneath. Very lively in the mouth and its coats the mouth beautifully too. (3.5) Flavor: Parallels bouquet, but the fruit is even more ripe and delicious. (3.5) Finish: Complex old vines fruit flavors linger very nicely. Does show a little tartness that makes it less than perfect, but it's close. (3.5)
Overall: A great Papera that is comparable to Carlisle's best vintages from this vineyard, such as '07, '08 and '12. Unfortunately for Carlisle, the '09 Papera is not quite as good as this (outstanding, just not great). The Novy's fruit is more distinct and concentrated than the Carlisle, making it a little less complex, but much more harmonious. It also has the elegant touch of a Pinot Noir producer. Drinking perfectly now, but should hold a few more years. Really wish these guys had decided not to sell off the Novy and Siduri names to Kendall Jackson. At least Adam Lee is still the chief winemaker, but the rub in these sorts of deals is "For how long?" (17.0)
Copyright © 2006 - 2017, Paul DeRose , WineOutpost.com