91 2003 Paul Lehrner Steineiche Blaufrankisch 1/14/06 ($28)
Terry Thiese Selection
Color: Medium deep garnet with no obvious purple. (3.0) Bouquet: Leather, game and black licorice components, reminiscent of a Syrah, but not heavy. Smooth, sweet blackberry and black cherry fruit. High acidity like a Nebbiolo or a red Burgundy. (3.5) Body: Solid middleweight with excellent acidity propelling sweet fruit, yet dry. Tastes modern, but not New World ripe. (3.0) Flavor: Parallels bouquet, but more elegant and a little less concentrated. (3.0) Finish: Parallels flavor. Long, but not concentrated. (3.0)
Overall: It starts out reminding one of a northern Rhone or Piedmontese wine and ends with a lot of class, more reminiscent of a red Burgundy, an interesting combo. I am not familiar with how Blaufrankisch ages, but I would guess that it could develop into something more in the next 2-4 years, but the middleweight body and lack of tannin suggest caution. (15.5)