93 1999 Vincent Girardin Clos de la Roche 11/25/10 ($80)
13.5% alc
Color: Medium deep brick red with quite a bit of clearing and some onion skin around the rim. Looks fully mature, but not old. (3.0) Bouquet: Black truffles, wet autumn leaves and sweet, musky red raspberry. (3.0) Body: Very good tart acidity and excellent fruit. A middleweight that coats the mouth. (3.0) Flavor: Parallels bouquet, but more complexity comes through. (3.5) Finish: Elegant, tart, rich red raspberry and canteloupe linger. Has delicacy combined with length and intensity. Pretty. (3.5)
Overall: Elegance and intensity combined with complexity and ripe fruit. What's so refreshing about this is its lack of fat, having it all without being overpowering or bloated in any way. It's a shame that Red Burgundy of this quality has become an amusement of the rich, as only Red Burgundy gives you this kind of elegance and intensity in an ironically delicate package. In a wine world where many of the best reds seem to be converging to a similar stylistic profile (bigger, bolder, more of everything), Red Burgundy sticks out as a unique original. Drink now and in the next 2-3 years. Give it 1-2 hours air for now drinking.(16.0)