89+ 2005 Vincent Girardin Gevrey Chambertin Vielles Vignes 11/27/08 ($50)
Color: Medium deep purple Burgundy. (3.0) Bouquet: Beef broth with black pepper and bay leaf. Some forest floor, iron and black truffle. A bit restrained. (3.0) Body: Tart acidity with good fruit and some tannin. Solid middleweight. (3.0) Flavor: Parallels bouquet, but tartness sticks out a bit. (2.5) Finish: Parallels flavor with length and a little sweeter and more open. Tangy. (3.0)
Overall: A nearly excellent Gevrey with very good structure and power along with some old vines character. Could be more complex and distinctive in flavor to counterbalance the tart acidity, but still a fine village wine. A now and later wine that should be at its best in 4-7 years. (14.5)
Note: I hate to sound like a broken record, but when I consider the prices of the '05 Burgundies, I automatically find myself expecting more than just good or even very good performances. Although generally deep in color and forward in fruit with good structure underneath, I haven't yet found an '05 Red Burgundy that impresses me for the price. And this is a time when value is more meaningful than ever.