88 2002 Vincent Girardin Maranges Clos des Loyeres VV 8/21/04 ($20)
Color: Deep purple-garnet, impressive for the appellation. (3.5) Bouquet: Rich, sweet cherry and blackberry with subtle buttered popcorn and truffles. Wonderful, it has opened up a lot with 1.5 hrs of air. (3.5) Body: Good fruit with acidity and even a little more tannin to meet. Tannins are very smooth, though. A middleweight that may gain a little more weight with some bottle age. (2.5) Flavor: Tart raspberry that is a little dry due to tannin, reserved but tasty with a silky mouthfeel. With luck the flavor will become more like the bouquet with time. (2.0) Finish: Falls somewhere between the excellent bouquet and the just pleasant flavor with tart, dried cherry and raspberry and attractively integrated cedary tannins. Relatively long, but some dryness due to tannin. (2.5)
Overall: A rich, silky and very tasty Burgundy. Could have more body and sweet fruit in the mouth, but the ripeness juxtaposing tannic dryness makes me optimistic that this will improve. Even now it is very enjoyable. I really can’t ask for more from a $20 red B, especially with the crazy prices that have emerged with the 2002 vintage. Needs 1-2 years to be at its best. (14.0)