87 1999 Estancia Meritage 11/26/03($26)
Rich black currant fruit with the milk chocolate and cigarbox nuances that are typical of this wine. Unfortunately, the wine is over-oaked, again. I really believe this wine could achieve quite a bit more, consistently, if some restraint were shown with the oak. I have fond memories of the ’95, which was perfectly balanced, but am afraid that that level of refinement is unlikely to be seen here again without a rethinking of their winemaking strategy.