In 1986, Augustin Huneeus, co-owner of Franciscan Vineyards at the time, purchased 1200 acres of vineyards formerly owned by Paul Masson in Soledad, CA (Monterey AVA) and created the Estancia label. This location is now known as the Pinnacles Ranch, which is in the Salinas valley just south of Monterey. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc are made here. From the start, these wines were known for delivering a lot of bang for the buck and still do to this day. Constellation Brands acquired the Estancia and Franciscan wineries in 1999. Estancia had produced a fine Meritage and Merlot from the Alexander Valley in Sonoma. They now make these wines from grapes grown in Paso Robles (Keyes Canyon Ranches), starting with the 2001 vintage (actually they made a Meritage from both locations in this vintage).
I've always viewed Estancia's Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from the Pinnacles Ranch as reliable, inexpensive "go to" wines that can be found almost anywhere. And I have fond memories of their outstanding Meritages from the mid-'90s. But I must admit that in recent years, I had lost track of their wines, so when their winery rep offered me the opportunity to sample some of their most recent offerings, I jumped at the chance. The tasting was centered around Pinot Noir, the most chic varietal on the planet right now, as well as the most expensive. Estancia's versions were paired next to those of Wild Horse, another winery under the Constellation umbrella, which has vineyard holdings in Santa Barbara.
Jason Melvin, the vineyard director at Estancia, and Jo Andrews, marketing director at Constellation, were my gracious hosts, who guided me through their wines over the course of dinner. Venison for me, I love how Pinot Noir pairs with game. Here's what we tasted:
Jason Melvin and Jo Andrews
Prices are from their websites, but can be found in stores for less.
Estancia www.estanciaestates.com
980 Bryant Canyon Road
Soledad, CA 93960 831-678-700087 2009 Estancia Pinot Noir Pinnacles Ranch (Monterey) $17
13.5%alc 200,000 cases
Overall: Very good Pinot fruit, showing candied cherry and bright acidity. Nice flavor intensity and a smooth finish shine most. Very good value.90 2007 Estancia Reserve Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands (Stonewall Vineyard) $32
14.8%alc 5,000 cases
Overall: More weight than the regular bottling with lots of concentrated, rich, ripe black cherry. A heavyweight with excellent acidity supporting the fruit. Shows a little heat and not elegant, but forward and delicious. Another very good value.Wild Horse www.estanciaestates.com
1437 Wild Horse Winery Ct
Templeton, CA 9346 805-788-631086 2008 Wild Horse Pinot Noir Central Coast $20
13.9%alc 70,000 cases
Overall: Deeper color and riper cherry and berry fruit than the Pinnacles with a hint of mineral. Tasty, but doesn't have the acidity-driven energy of the Pinnacles. Although, the riper fruit may appeal more to some tasters.88 2007 Wild Horse Unbridled Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County) $35
14.3%alc 3000 cases
Overall: Similar in style and fruit to the regular bottling, but with a bit more concentration and some forestal nuances thrown in. Again, my palate would prefer more acidity here and the finish is a little short.91+ 2007 Wild Horse Cheval Sauvage Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley) $65
14.1%alc 100 cases
Overall: An elegant bouquet of tart black cherry and plum with some herbal, forest floor and truffle nuances. Very distinctive and propelled by excellent acidity with a rich, silky mouthfeel. Nothing overdone here, just pure elegance, the way Pinot Noir should be. May gain more complexity in the next few years, but hard to resist now.
Final Thoughts: All of these Pinot Noirs were very good to excellent examples of their respective regions of origin, being both well-made and balanced. The fruit of the Estancia wines was less ripe and better supported by acidity than the first two Wild Horse wines, but the Cheval Sauvage really came through as the most elegant, nuanced and distinctive wine of the bunch. The Estancia wines appeared to be better bargains than those of Wild Horse to this taster. But both were different enough for each to rally a separate fan base, which will likely ensure their continued success.
Copyright © 2006 - 2011, Paul DeRose , WineOutpost.com
