93+ 2013 Carlisle Papera Ranch Zinfandel (Russian River Valley) 4/16/16 ($47)
96% Zinfandel, 4% Carignane 802cases 15.3% alc
Color: Deep purple ruby. (3.5) Bouquet: Kirschwasser and marachino cherries combine with briary spice and a little heat. Youthfully fierce and slightly closed. (3.0) Body: Heavyweight plus with outstanding fruit concentration and excellent tannins and acidity. Does show some heat, but still balanced with a big, silky mouthfeel that coats big time. (3.5) Flavor: Parallels bouquet with candied black cherry fruit to the fore. Its flavors are somewhat unformed at this early stage. (3.0) Finish: Finally get that musky, briary, exotically spicy old vines complexity here. It lasts a long time too. (3.5)
Overall: A powerhouse with an amazing combination of fruit concentration and ageworthy structure (big tannins and fierce acidity). The dense, slightly candied, black cherry fruit emerges slowly with less distinction when first opened. But give it time (decant for hours) and the structure comes forward to tame the fruit. I particularly love the big, viscous, even silky mouthfeel and the long, complex old vines finish. It does show some heat at this early stage and really needs time to integrate and calm down. But expect great things if cellared for 5 years or so. If you must drink it now, decant for many hours. (16.5)
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