94 1997 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico 12/19/09 ($40, $23 in Tuscany)
13.5% alc
Color: Very deep brick red with a touch of brown, but no clearing. (3.5) Bouquet: Almonds and pistacios with Tuscan terroir, some black truffle and minerality complementing cedary cherry fruit. Vibrant and refined. (3.5) Body: Light heavyweight with excellent acidity, fruit and secondary nuances. Well balanced. (3.0) Flavor: Parallels bouquet with a very solid mid-palate. Could be more forward, but still a little young. (3.0) Finish: Parallels bouquet with impressive persistence and concentration, yet elegant. (3.5)
Overall: A very impressive Chianti Classico Riserva (this is equivalent to a Riserva, even though it's simply labelled an estate-bottled CC, i.e., Brolio proclaiming "Chateau" status). Very concentrated with strong terroir character. Its outstanding balance may enable it to go another 10 years, but I love the combination of youthful vibrancy and more mature, secondary nuances that are now on display. (16.5)
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