90 2006 Brolio Chianti Classico 12/28/09 ($22)
13.5% alc
Color: Very deep garnet. (3.5) Bouquet: Black cherry and blackberry with cedar. Rich, but a little brawny with a touch of heat. (2.5) Body: Light heavyweight with excellent fruit and tannin that coat the mouth nicely. (3.0) Flavor: Parallels bouquet, but fruit is more attractive here. Tastes like Sangiovese, but I also get some of the structure and fruit of a Bordeaux blend. This suggests significant contributions from Cabernet and Merlot. (3.0) Finish: Cherries, blackberries, briary forestal nuances and cigarbox show excellent length. (3.0)
Overall: This is excellent, but Chianti purists will want more Sangiovese character, i.e., more dusty cherry and fierce acidity, and less blackberry/cassis and Cabernet-like tannins. Nonetheless, a top notch, modern Chianti Classico, as usual, with impressive balance, weight and structure for its appellation and price. Tastes like many a Super Tuscan blend in the $35 range. Drink now and in the next 3-4 years. (15.0)
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