90 2004 Rene Bouvier Marsannay Clos du Roy 5/18/07 ($30)
13% alc
Color: Medium deep black cherry. Doesn’t look particularly young, but healthy. (3.0) Bouquet: Smoky black cherry cola and strawberry with spicy cinnamon, also a watercress and forestal complexity in the background. A little restrained at first, but opens with air. (3.0) Body: Solid middleweight (big for Marsannay) with very good acidity and fruit to balance. Somewhat silky. (3.0) Flavor: Gamy, smoky black cherry propelled by just the right amount of acidity. (3.0) Finish: Parallels bouquet with excellent length. A subtle finish, but persistent. (3.0)
Overall: An impressive Marsannay. This has balance, fruit and complexity that exceed the expectations of the appellation and vintage. It is seamless from start to finish. I hope I can find Bouvier’s Fixin and Gevrey-Chamb. Comparable to the 2004 Amisfield in quality, drinkability and style, but I like this a little better. Drink now and in the next 2 years. (15.0)