89+ 2004 Amisfield Pinot Noir Central Otago 3/18/07 ($24)
13.9% alc
Color: Medium raspberry. (2.5) Bouquet: Very red raspberry with excellent aromaticity and some mushroom and oak complementing. Can detect just a hint of alcohol. (3.0) Body: Excellent acidity with just enough fruit. A middleweight with oak and alcohol in balance. Could use some mouthcoating concentration. (3.0) Flavor: Parallels bouquet. (3.0) Finish: Parallels flavor. Could have more intensity, but fine Pinot Noir character and subtle complexity linger. (3.0)
Overall: Only P.N. can give this much aromaticity combined with such elegance on a humble frame. A well-done P.N. that could improve in the next 1-2 years. It could be richer and more intense, i.e., it’s meant for relatively light fare, but has more fine P.N. character than many bigger, more pricey New World Pinots. New Zealand P.N.s express the flavor profile and elegance of the grape, but haven’t quite found the rich sensuality of P.N. yet. Give them a little more time. I think they’re on the right track. (14.5)