Back Jan 15, 2011
CA Reds: Some Old, Some New & Carignane Too
Rafik Samuel and I tasted through six California reds, including two Cabernets, a Zinfandel, a Syrah and two very nice surprises. The six came from three of our favorite wineries in CA. Here are the mostly good results.
The Old Ones - flight of 3
88 1991 Michel-Schlumberger Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek) $30
% alcohol not given on the label
Overall: In fine shape for its age, showing excellent structure and secondary nuances of mushrooms, cedar and gray clay (St. Julien-like) with decent cassis fruit underneath. Has the structure to get even more interesting in the next 2-3 years, but probably doesn't have the fruit, so drink up. I really enjoy sniffing this, but the fruit is somewhat faded in the flavor and finish, suggesting that I probably would have prefered to drink it a few years earlier.90 1994 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet $24
81% CS, 11% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot 12.8%alc
Overall: Excellent minerals and acidity support very good cassis fruit (could have more) and an interesting mocha nuance. Was better a couple of years ago, but should hold for a couple more years. Very consistent from start to finish, making it very enjoyable.93 1999 Ridge Lytton Springs $28
70% Zin, 17% PetiteSirah, 10% Carignane, 3% Mataro 14.5%alc
Overall: Concentrated blackberries with briar, clove and menthol spice, even a little game. A little more mature than I expected, probably because I bought this bottle from a wine shop just 2 years ago, so storage was probably less than perfect. I was expecting a little more stucture and the fruit to be a little fresher. In spite of this, its still, rich, balanced, interesting, delicious and ready to be drunk now.The Young'ins - flight of 3
91+ 2008 Carlisle Three Birds (Sonoma County) $29
78% Grenache, 16% Mourvedre, 6% Syrah 14.9%alc 160 cases
Overall: Shows interesting herbs, mint, game, balsamic vinegar and milk chocolate complexity combined with vibrant purple grape juice and blueberry fruit, uplifted by excellent minerality. Its acidity-based structure should enable it to improve in the next 5 years. Decant for 2 hours for now drinking.90 2008 Carlisle Syrah (Sonoma County) $25
14.9%alc 230 cases
Overall: Rich, dense Syrah with black plum and cassis fruit, which is intense, but simple compared to the Three Birds. A heavyweight with big, but smooth, tannins. Shows a little heat and bitterness in the flavor and finish. Needs some time to mellow, 4-6 years, but still balanced enough to drink now.94 2007 Carlisle Papera Ranch Carignane (Russian River) $23
mostly Carignane with just "a splash" of Zinfandel 14.1%alc 150 cases
Overall: The combination of rich, silky raspberry and fresh cranberry sauce fruit combined with dark coffee and cocoa is absolutely intoxicating. It also has great elegance and musky old vines complexity on a solid middleweight frame. This is an amazing wine, tastes like Musigny meets Carignane. Delicious and quite drinkable now, but may become even more complex in the next 2-5 years.Final Thoughts: The Cabernets were fine, but probably at their best at 10-12 years old. The Lytton Springs was the clear winner of the first flight. The Three Birds has a lot of potential, particularly for a Sonoma County bottling, the Syrah is big, but simple in comparison. The Carignane easily won this flight, not surprising coming from a great vineyard.
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